Browning the mushrooms creates a rich, earthy flavor that contrasts well with the bright, peppery kale and zingy dressing.
The heat of the mushrooms wilts and softens the kale slightly without needing to cook the greens.
Hearty enough for a vegetarian lunch, it’s also a great side dish or first course.
When you cook as a couple, you have to constantly deal with what each person does and doesn't like to eat. One of us (Matt) loves mushrooms, though, admittedly, mostly fried up English-style for breakfast; the other (Emily) used to dislike them, finding them to be either chewy, slimy, rubbery, or otherwise unappetizing.
We eventually realized that the problem wasn't with the mushrooms, it was how we'd been cooking them. We'd been treating mushrooms like most other vegetables, when we really should've been cooking them like meat. By searing mushrooms until deeply browned, you can bring out their earthy, meaty, umami-packed flavor, while their interiors remain tender and juicy. Now, we have no conflict—we both love mushrooms and work them into our meals all the time. Here, we toss them with baby kale and a flavorful sherry vinaigrette to make an easy, filling salad.
The key here is to develop a really good crust on the mushrooms, just like you would with a steak. And one of the best ways to do that is to avoid crowding the pan—mushrooms are prone to dumping a lot of liquid, which is why they often wind up steaming themselves instead of searing. The less crowded the pan is, the less liquid they'll dump, and the faster said liquid will evaporate, allowing the mushrooms to stop steaming and start searing. You don't even have to move them around much—just let them sit and sizzle in the oil, stirring just enough to brown them on all sides. The whole process can easily take six or seven minutes, if not more.
The choice of mushrooms is entirely up to you—we almost always start with a basic cremini (sometimes sold as baby portobellos) and then add in whatever varieties pique our interest, from cultivated oyster and shiitake mushrooms to wild chanterelles and black trumpets. Incorporating more than onetype of mushroomadds a wealth of nuanced flavor and texture to this dish—just keep in mind that if you use shiitakes, you'll want to remove and discard their tough, woody stems.
After a nice, crisping sear, what you end up with are mushrooms that will satisfy both vegetariansandpeople who think bacon should be a food group. They're salty and savory, crispy and juicy.
To finish the mushrooms, we add sliced shallots to the pan and cook them until softened and tender, then deglaze the pan with some sherry wine, reducing it until it's nearly evaporated.
Then, we toss the mushrooms and shallots with kale leaves and a dressing of rich, nutty sherry vinegar, mustard, a touch of honey, and olive oil. (If you don't have sherry vinegar, a good red wine vinegar is a fine substitute.)
Today, one of us (Matt) is thrilled that the other (Emily) is fully on board the mushroom train. Now, if only we could agree on Marmite and kidney beans...
Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over high heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they've released all their liquid and are browned, about 10 minutes total, reducing heat if oil starts to smoke excessively. Lower heat to medium, and stir in butter and shallots. Cook, stirring often, until butter is melted and shallots soften and turn translucent, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Add sherry and cook until mostly evaporated. Remove from heat and keep warm.
In a small bowl, whisk together the remaining 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil with sherry vinegar, mustard, and honey. Season with salt and pepper. Alternatively, add dressing ingredients to a jar, cover, and shake until emulsified.
In a large bowl, toss kale with just enough dressing to lightly coat. Add warm mushrooms and toss again. Add more dressing, as needed, to lightly coat all ingredients. Top with goat cheese, if using, and serve. Extra dressing can be kept in the refrigerator for another use.
Notes
For a list of assorted cultivated and wild mushrooms, check out our Serious Eats mushroom shopping guide.
Break up large pieces and remove the really small pieces. Try to make the pieces approximately the same size for even cooking. In a large bowl stir together the balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and salt. Add kale and massage well.
How to Massage Kale. Our go-to method: Add chopped kale to a large bowl and top with lemon juice and olive oil. Use clean hands to massage for about 3 minutes to soften the leaves and infuse the leaves with the oil and lemon. A pinch of salt added near the end of massaging adds even more flavor.
Typical shelf life: Generally, kale can last in the fridge for about five to seven days. The key is to store it correctly to maintain its crispness and nutrients. Impact of temperature and humidity: Kale prefers a cool and slightly humid environment, so the crisper drawer in your fridge is ideal.
Minced garlic, olive oil, and salt are also simple ingredients that can transform the flavor of a bitter kale dish. Cutting the stem of kale and marinating it with olive oil and salt can help reduce bitterness.
Cut the kale as you want to serve it, set it in a colander or steamer over a pot of boiling shallow water, cover and cook until the kale is tender (about 5 to 10 minutes). Allow the kale to cool until you can handle it, then squeeze out as much water as you can. Serve steamed kale warm or at room temperature.
Unlike some other types of kale, lacinato is tender, which makes it ideal to use raw in salads. You can also add it to soups, frittatas, and other cooked dishes.
You can also soften kale with lemon or another acidic ingredient, such as apple cider vinegar. Use about a tablespoon per bunch of kale. Follow the same steps as you would if you were using oil. Some people like to use both oil and an acidic ingredient, since acid can really help break down the kale.
Massaging kale is a fantastic way to make kale less bitter. The massaging process helps kale release its bitter compounds, eliminating some of this vegetable's bitter flavor. Do I need to rinse kale after massaging? No, there's no need to rinse your massaged kale before adding it to your favorite recipes.
Some tell-tale signs to look out for are discoloration, wilting, or mushiness. Fresh kale should be firm, crisp, and have a deep green hue. The stems should be moist and strong. Of course, if your kale smells bad or is growing mold, toss it immediately.
Room temperature kale will only last a few hours—about four at most. Any longer, and the kale will start to wilt and get bitter. Additionally, there's an increased risk of bacteria growth when left out too long and unrefrigerated. Refrigerated kale should last up to a week before it starts to wilt.
Cutting the stems crossways shortens the fibres, much as with a tough steak, making them perfectly edible and preventing waste. Cut this way, the stems can be cooked in the same way as the rest of the leaf: sauteed, boiled or steamed.
Kale is fibrous and can be difficult to munch compared to other greens like romaine lettuce or spinach. The rubbing, kneading motion helps to tenderize the veg and make it easier to chew and digest. Try this for raw kale you are going to be serving or eating right away.
Kale can be good for adding fiber and antioxidants to the diet in many savory dishes, salads, and smoothies. Various health benefits include managing blood pressure and boosting digestive health. Kale is a leafy green cruciferous vegetable that is rich in nutrients.
While massaging kale might seem like a fussy step, the benefits are plentiful. First, massaging kale helps break down the vegetable's fibrous texture, leaving the leaves with a softer texture. Massaging kale is also an easy way to infuse flavor into raw leaves without cooking and make a dish even better.
Massaging kale for salad makes the vegetable more palatable by releasing its bitter compounds and—as a result—making the kale less bitter. This simple process breaks down the vegetable's fibrous texture, making it more tender, easier to chew, and more digestible.
Frozen Mango: My favorite fruit for this smoothie, but you could also use pineapple, peaches, blueberries, or frozen bananas. Medjool Dates: I use 2 and don't recommend leaving them out, they help cover up the kale taste and provide sweetness. Hemp, Chia or Flax Seeds: For added protein and healthy fats.
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